Color

I've been thinking about this Dries van Noten tie for a long time. So long in fact that it is now sold out. On one hand, I love that shade of blue--bright and refreshing. Fuck navy! Go neon teal.
On the other hand, it's kind of gaudy and, with those flowers, a bit feminine, no? And then I think...
... grow some balls and wear it with confidence. According to Dries himself (after his Spring 2008 show), "The only way to make colors believable for guys is to make them as masculine as possible." It's sad that colors have to be "[made] believable for guys." We should not shy away from color. We should own it and wear it proudly.

As for the flowers, I'm a huge fan; they are so bold and graphic, just no-frill, no-nonsense silhouettes in black. I love the diagonal cascade at the top. And the runty little flower just an inch or so below is a cute surprise.

In conclusion, does the tie remind anyone else of tropical board shorts?

I'd like to think I had something to do with this

Huzzah

Mimi Fong Update: Ornate Patterns

I wrote about the above Mimi Fong tie once before a few months back sans a close up shot (Unfortunately, the Mimi Fong website doesn't let you zoom in on the patterns). Now that the tie is on the Neiman Marcus website, we can finally get a good look at it.

I love the ethereal ornate black and white pattern here -- it gives the tie an appealing graphic quality; it's as if someone drew the pattern on the fabric with a pen.

To be completely honest, I don't think this tie is particularly pretty -- but it ellicits a strong visceral response from me; the baroque, almost gothic quality is alluring. Interestingly, the ornate pattern is not light and airy, like the first tie of the post, but dark and thick, almost oppressively so, as if it were made of wrought iron. There are a lot of ties out there that have no personality, no real point-of-view or aesthetic. This tie has loads of it.

Transparency of the Process

Without those little white stitch marks (real or trompe-l'œil, I don't know and I don't care -- same effect) this tie would be pretty bland -- just another simple striped tie. However, not only does the white stitching give the tie some ornamentation and a little visual pizazz ("bling", if you will), it also emphasizes the art of fashion by showing transparency of the process. Fashion begins with the stitch -- and what this tie so slyly suggests is that the stitch is not only functional but also fashionable.

If you don't buy the analytical bull crap, that's A.O.K. with me. It's still a cute tie. Plus, I'm loving the vibrant and warm color choices; the olive green, the warm orange -- it's a very Tuscan color palette. My personal favorite? The plum. Black and purple (especially such a dark shade) is just such a romantic and sexy color combination.

Structure

A note to my readers: I only blog about ties that I love. As in, head-over-heels. And that really doesn't happen very often, because, sadly, ties are rarely the centerpiece of the outfit -- they are mainly there to match the shirt. Lame.

The above Band of Outsiders tie hit me like a train -- the big black & white geometric pattern is bold and masculine. Very Greek-Key. The tie acts like a big visual pillar, giving the model* a strong structural center that is very aesthetically pleasing.

*Jason Bateman of Arrested Development fame!

Photos: Ben Watts for GQ September 2007 Page 387

Fresh off the Runway: Louis Vuitton Spring 2008

Chartreuse? Sky blue? Damn gutsy. Marc Jacobs uses color in a very sophisticated way here. The chunky segments of color with the chunky color progression is, well, besides being chunky, amazingly aesthetically pleasing, especially when it's basically the centerpiece of your outfit (note: I think white/cream is pretty much the only thing that goes with that tie. Anything more and you get color overload). The black stripe at the end is both humorous (completely unexpected) and functional: it serves as a visual contrast to tell you "the tie ends here." Also, note that the chunky parallelograms of color in the tie mirror the diamond patchwork of the jacket (Vuitton's new "spiral" cutting technique).

This tie is almost the opposite of the previous one: not chunky at all, just ridiculously sleek. Once again, Jacobs is using color so well: the silver works as a great highlight, giving the outfit some pop, while the use of ombre (fading from one color to another) to match the black shirt is cool and humorous without being gimmicky.

Photos: imaxtree.com/Alessandro Lucioni

Kiton

Greece. That's all I can think about. Olive branches. That blue.

Canada. Maple leaves. That's all.

In all seriousness, these Kiton ties are gorgeous. The micro-sized pattern, the color scheme (white over base color): it all adds up to a sophisticated, elaborate, and decadent tie.

And with Kiton, you know you're getting amazing quality; afterall, these ties are $172... on Bluefly...

Scottish Cousin

How cool are these ties? Masculine, subdued, and mature. Plus, wool always makes me smile.

Although the very traditional striped-repp tie will always be in fashion, they are HUGE right now, thanks in part to the popularity of JCrew and Band of Outsiders.

In this context, you can't help but see a little striped-repp in the above plaid ties, especially the first. It's as if Polo were riffing off the popularity of the striped-repp, creating the Scottish cousin of a traditionally English tie. Very cool.

Novelty!

I think a lot of Hermes ties are butt-ugly. Enough with the little oranges, dancing teddy-bears, and self-promoting H's! Sure, you can't refute the quality of their ties, but I draw the line at whales.

But occasionally, they get things so right (I WANT THIS SO BAD) and their aesthetic vision aligns with my own. The above tie is super-cool. That horse makes my day, for a number of reasons. 1) It's tiny. 2) It's a beautiful rendition of a horse and 3) Once that baby is tied, our little horse will probably end up somewhere underneath your collar, in the knot, or behind the visible part of your tie, depending on how you tie it.

The tie has such a sense of humor; it's only embellishment is hidden away, known only to the wearer. And the rest of the tie is just so clean and simple - slim cut and navy blue. It's a humble, yet confident design.

So it only makes sense that Hermes call it a "Novelty Tie." Ugh.

60s!

The colors in this Zegna tie are amazing. The light blue and the stripe colors are very retro, very 60s; the tie looks like a Saul Bass film introduction (check out the title credits for "Around the World in 80 Days" and "West Side Story"). Even the stripe pattern is evocative of Saul Bass (check out "Psycho" and the Saul Bass inspired "Catch Me if You Can" intro below).

More on Tie Bars!

A great article from Slate.com about tie bars.

Updates!

Saw it in person and fell in love!

Bought it... twice...

More casual than I thought, but still nice!

Tie Accessories

I remember during my days at prep school (ugh, this sounds so snooty...), I used to sling my tie (dress code) over my shoulder while I grabbed food from the dining hall. Freshman year, I would all too often lean over for the last piece of bacon, only to have the end of my tie dip into a tray of bacon grease. The faint aroma of bacon would follow me all day.

Other boys had different strategies to keep that tie under control: some tucked the end of their ties into their shirt between buttons, while others stuffed it into their shirt pocket. Really, as a prep school student, you can kind of get away with fashion murder--you're expected to make mistakes (in life, school, and fashion). But as we get older, somehow we're expected to know more. No metal in the microwave. Stop procrastinating. No square-toed shoes.

And don't be that 35 year old guy with your tie tucked into your shirt pocket. Get a tie bar:

Oh, Tiffany's. This tie bar has just enough decorative embellishment for me. The small knot serves as a focal point, giving the tie bar some visual flair. But it still manages to be clean and minimalist.

These finds are from eBay. New tie bars are ridiculously difficult to find online because, well, men's jewelry isn't a huge market. But you will find lots of vintage stuff on eBay, stuff that I think can often be really nice and really cheap (like 20 times cheaper than that Tiffany's tie bar, no joke). Keep a look out for established vintage jewelers: Swank, Anson, and Hickok all made lots of interesting pieces.

The first two tie bars are Hickok. I am still upset that I forgot to bid on them... that first one is too cool for school! I love how you'd be able to see some of the tie through the bar. The second one is rather plain, but it's smaller and therefore better suited for the skinny/slim ties that are all the rage.

The second two bars are Swank. If you look closely, you'll see there is a slight pattern on the edges of the tie bar. It's very art deco, very chic. But it's still very understated and cool--your friends will only notice the pattern when it hits the light at the right angle. Once again, I am upset that I forgot to bid.

Hope you all have better luck on eBay than me!

Seasonal Ties

I'm not sure when I first learned about Alexander Olch, but his website has been on my favorites list for a while now. I love the variety of materials that he works with; in fact, most of the ties on his website right now aren't silk. You've got wool, cashmere, corduroy, cotton, seersucker, etc... It's amazing.

Let's take a look at the first tie. The material (no nonsense cotton), the color, and the pattern are all light and airy--everything about it screams summertime. Still, the tie remains mature and sexy. I would definitely wear this for formal occasions during the spring and summer.

The second tie is more casual: the thin brown stripes may seem a little too subtle, but the tie is still fun and casual because of the seersucker. Yea, it's kinda preppy and reminiscent of lobster bakes in Maine, but just don't wear the tie with pants with whales on them and you'll be ok.

Let us transition into the fall and winter! The third tie is just lovely. The wool houndstooth is so old-school cool. And the tie is cut nice and slim so it's still young and fresh. This tie is a dream come true for fall ensembles, bringing in pattern and texture in a unique way.

And finally, a simple brown cashmere tie. Really, it's kind of boring--but I have such an odd emotional reaction to it! The brown cashmere makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside; it's hot chocolate, fireplaces, fall foliage, and chestnuts all in simple slim brown tie.

Asian Persuasian

I first saw Mimi Fong ties at NeimanMarcus.com. To be perfectly honest, I thought they were kinda ugly. The colors, the patterns... the pandas...

But there's no denying the artistic quality and craftsmanship of her ties. So I googled Mimi and found her website to give her another chance.

And wow... her stuff is amazing. In general, her ties are so much more subtle than the selection available on the Neiman Marcus website. Note the first tie: the bamboo pattern is gorgeous; I love the large bold pattern and the color combination is great.

The second set of ties are in the dragon pattern. Three words, gentlemen: unique paisley replacement.

Finally, my favorite pattern at Mimi Fong right now: cherry blossoms. The pattern is so detailed and intricate and I love the open spaces between the cherry blossoms--it makes the tie look more like art than a tie. Everything about this tie is romantic and beautiful. Interestingly, all the color combinations work for me, but my favorite is the black and white.

For $145, Mimi Fong's ties are in the higher price bracket, but they're unlike any other ties out there.

Classic

Regis Philbin ruined solid ties for me. "Who Wants to be a Millionaire?" became HUGE and solid ties (especially ones with a metallic sheen) were around everyone's necks, including mine. Boo. Now everytime I see a solid tie, a little part of me dies. Thanks, Regis.

And that is why I love this monochromatic black paisley Brioni. From far away, it's just a boring black tie; but when you get up close, it's like "gotcha!" I'm not a fan of paisley, but here it looks gorgeous and sophisticated; the black on black makes the paisley less gaudy and the paisley makes the black tie less somber. Two very conventional elements in perfect harmony.

Godley

I had never heard of Robert Godley, but his ties are among my favorites right now at Barneys. After doing a little research (yea, all I did was google him), I found out he's worked at Drakes, Turnbull & Asser, and Ralph Lauren. For a tiemaker, I don't think you could ask for better credentials.

Godley also makes the Psycho Bunny collection of accessories that you can find at Neiman Marcus; it's all pretty cute, but it's subversive humor is a little too obvious in my opinion (skulls with bunny ears). His eponymous collection at Barneys, though, is definitely more sophisticated and more my style. Above are 2.5 examples.

I've resisted blogging about the brown striped tie because it really doesn't look all that special. But under closer inspection, it's really quite kooky: the drab browns are drab to the point of interesting and the odd stripe variations give the tie an off-kilter feel. In the end, it's weird, but surprisingly aesthetically pleasing.

Godley's dot ties are also very cool; very floral meets math. I prefer the burgundy, but the Barneys website didn't have a close-up, so I put up the mint as well. Is it floral? Is it abstract? I don't know and that's why I like 'em.

Fruit Stripe Tie

There's something about this Jack Spade tie that I find very appealing. The bold chunky stripes give the tie a masculine feel, but the yellow girl-ies it up a bit, giving the tie a kind of built-in sexual tension--the same principle governs the allure of the pink dress shirt. I have to be honest though; deep down, I think I like this tie because it reminds me of my favorite childhood gum:
I know, right? Totally. In addition to the childhood nostalgia, there's also some adult(ish) curiosity that feeds my love: an unlined tie? handkerchief turned edges? hand picked stitching? I admit, I'm not a huge expert in the construction of ties, but this sounds pretty cool. I may just have to buy this tie, but $85 is a bit much just to quell my curiousity.

EDIT 06/10/07: I got myself down to New York and went to the Jack Spade store. First thing I looked for was this tie. I was initially a bit turned off by how thin it is -- it almost feels cheap. But, the thinness keeps it youthful, fresh, and casual. Something you could wear with a blazer and jeans. It's not as versatile as I would have hoped (a no-no at fancy occasions), but tres chic nonetheless.

Randomness

I'm always a little wary whenever a department store manufactures their own stuff, so when I saw this Barneys tie, I was just a tad suspicious. From the looks of the first photo, it's a bit crooked, maybe?

Otherwise, it's a beautiful tie. I love the lack of a pattern (though there is one, if you look for it hard enough); it's as if the flowers were falling down your tie. Ties are almost always made with patterned fabric, which emphasize their mass-production quality. But here, the random placement of flowers makes it seem more like artwork than a department store tie. Not to mention, the color combination is perfect.

EDIT 06/10/07: I bought it and I love it... and in a moment of weakness, I bought the blue-with-pink-flowers version, too (50% off, folks!) -- if the brown/blue didn't do it for you, the blue/pink might work. The brown/blue is a bit more sophisticated, while the blue/pink is more sexy, more fun.

Uber-Conservative

I'll admit that my tie choices so far aren't really well suited for the fashion-conservative. Thus, I give you Hermes. Most Hermes ties put me off; I don't understand a tie with tesselating octopi... Sure, it must be hell to weave the image of an eight legged cephalopod in silk, but give me a break! I'm not going to spend $160 on a tie with a pattern that can be found on children's pajamas.

But this Hermes tie works against that aesthetic to great success. The hint of orange at the bottom of the tie is clever without being gimmicky and rescues the tie from just being plain boring while keeping it nice and understated. Hermes has this tie in multiple color combinations, but there's something about the brown/orange I really like. Note: Although not on their website now, there used to be a blue/orange version; it may come back so check again in a while if you're partial to blue.

EDIT 06/10/07: I happened upon this tie at the Neiman Marcus in Boston and I was blown away. The silk feels amazing, the proportion is perfect (not too fat, not too skinny), the orange stripe pops so much -- it's striking. Swoon.

Hip to be a Square

I WANT THESE NOW.

Band of Outsiders is huge right now; their clothing, especially their ties, are on like every GQ/Details page. And rightfully so. Their ties are skinny and hip, but with a traditional flair.

Simple blue navy stripes = drool.
Gingham = drool.

Yea, so the gingham tie might be too Dorothy via Oz but I think that's where it gets its charm. If you think the gingham's a little too country, the striped tie is for you: it's a bit more sophisticated and masculine, but just as charming. Perfect spring ties, my friends. Clean and cool.

And the squared off ends really do make these ties--their like little surprises. With the normal pointy shape, I feel like these ties would just be kinda boring.